Islam Karimov Museum
More background info: Karimov had been president of the Uzbek SSR in the final years of the
USSR, and when that was collapsing and
Uzbekistan became independent in 1991, he basically did the same as his counterparts in
Kazakhstan and
Turkmenistan did: he simply transitioned to president of the newly independent state. He then had himself confirmed in office in an election that was widely regarded as undemocratic. In 1995 he staged a “referendum” in which his term was extended until the year 2000. In subsequent elections in 2000, 2007 and 2015 (despite, by the then Uzbek constitution, having nominally no longer been eligible after two terms in office) he was re-elected each time with around 90% of the “vote”, as is customary for any self-respecting dictator (although as far as I know only Saddam Hussein ever went as far as claiming a full 100%).
In late August 2016 Karimov suffered a stroke and was kept alive for a few days in a coma in hospital, where, however, he eventually succumbed to the massive brain haemorrhage he had suffered and passed away.
During his 25-year reign as president he ruled with the proverbial iron fist, suppressing any real form of opposition and overseeing a regime that engaged in censorship, repression, torture, political incarceration, and even massacres – especially that of protesters in Andijan in 2005, in which between 200 and 1500 people were shot dead.
After initially courting Islam in the early years of Uzbek independence, presumably in an attempt to quell any possible Islamic rebellions, Karimov later changed his stance, especially after an assassination attempt on his life in 1999. Increasingly paranoid about the growing radical Islamic movements in the region he embarked on a decidedly anti-Islamic course which eventually went as far as banning mosques’ calls to prayer (a rule quickly reversed by his successor).
In the early phase of the American “war on terror” following
9/11, Karimov positioned himself as an ally of the
USA. The Americans were allowed to set up an airbase in south-east Uzbekistan from where to fly sorties into Afghanistan. Controversially, the US secret service the
CIA also used Uzbekistan in its extraordinary rendition programme – abducting suspected terrorists there from Afghanistan for “enhanced interrogation” (i.e. torture) before shipping them off to Guantanamo Bay (see Cuba).
After US criticism because of the 2005 Andijan massacre, the relations with the USA soured and Karimov sought to align himself more closely with other players such as
China and
Russia.
After his death Karimov was interred in a mausoleum in his birth city of Samarkand (see
below), while the “Oksaroy residence”, his former palace in the capital Tashkent, from where he had led his ruthless regime, was turned into this museum of sorts. This semi-opened in April 2017.
Officially its name is this grandiosely OTT mouthful: “The Scientific and Enlightenment Complex Named After the First President of Uzbekistan Islam Karimov ”.
Large parts of the complex are still not open to the public yet, but access to two exhibition rooms in a side building is possible, if a little regimented (see below).
What there is to see: I haven’t been to this place myself, but here is a report from a British expat living in Tashkent (where, amongst other things, he is running this
Central Asia travel blog – external link, opens in a new tab). I quote the report in full, almost verbatim, with only very light editing in (marked) places:
“The museum is located inside the Oksaroy residence (also known as the White Palace) which was the residence from which Karimov conducted his political activities. The grounds of the museum are quite large and include a statue of Karimov on top of a tall pillar in front of the palace.
Upon arriving at the entrance expect to be greeted at the large black gate by a policeman who will search you before you can enter. The palace is then roughly a 100m walk from the gates.
Although there is a museum, library, reading room, science centre, and conference room all within the main building, they are in fact closed to the public. The only section of the entire grounds which is possible to visit are a couple of exhibitions in a separate annex at the back of the grounds.
The smaller of the two exhibitions is a photo gallery, with photos of Karimov from his childhood and throughout his career as a politician. Starting with a small section of black and white family photos, the gallery moves chronologically throughout his life. Many of the photos are of his meetings with other international politicians and statespeople including at least a couple with Putin, Xi Jinping, and even one with Prince Charles ([now King]).
The larger exhibition is the more intriguing of the two and it's here where the cult of personality surrounding Karimov shines.
In this exhibition there are over 35 portraits and bronze sculptures of Karimov, painted in a large range of styles. Plenty of the portraits are simple head and shoulders style but some of the paintings are quite bizarre. One of the more outlandish [examples] includes Karimov [...] in white shirt and red tie next to two snarling [tigers] and four vultures set to a backdrop of [what looks like a solar eclipse].
Another painting, set against a background of raindrops in space, depicts two Karimovs. One appears in a pensive state whilst the other seemingly looks at himself, whilst wearing a headset. There are also a couple of portraits of his wife, Tatyana Karimova, but the majority of the portraits are of Islam Karimov himself.
Unfortunately most of the signs are in Russian and Uzbek but not in English although there are some written words outside the exhibitions from academics.
As visitors to the exhibitions are quite rare, there is a good chance you'll be the only tourists there. Expect that you may be chaperoned by museum staff who don't speak English. Although this can feel quite daunting to be the only tourist in a tiny Soviet-style museum followed closely by staff members, they do offer a free Islam Karimov calendar upon leaving ... [...]
Considering that this is a museum, there is a relatively heavy police presence in the grounds where you'll rarely, if ever, find yourself out of sight of either a guard or other member of staff.”
Location: in the Yakkasaray district of Tashkent,
Uzbekistan, towards the western end of Afrosiab Street.
Access and costs: not hard to find, some security has to be dealt with, but free.
Details: The nearest metro station is Kosmonavtlar, from where it is a few hundred yards’ walk north-west along Afrosiab Street.
You have to go through security at the gate, and may be searched. Then you're required to give your name and country of origin at the reception to the exhibitions, although unusually for Uzbekistan, a passport is not required to verify these details. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to have it on you anyway, though, just in case …
Admission: free
Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Inside the complex photography is permitted, but no videoing.
Time required: Reportedly (cf.
above) you barely need half an hour to view the two exhibition rooms currently open. But add another ca. 30 minutes to get through security and find your bearings.
Combinations with other dark destinations: Within Tashkent another place of dark-tourism interest has to be the Memorial and Museum of Victims of Political Repression on Amir Temur Avenue near the city’s distinctive Soviet-era TV tower. Please note: this museum is NOT about the victims of Karimov’s repression of opposition to himself, but deals with imprisonment, deportations and killings for political reasons during the
Soviet era! (Open Tuesday to Sunday 9-17h – location: [41.3471, 69.2882]).
Two hours away by train you can also visit the mausoleum of Islam Karimov, located by the Hazrat Khizr Mosque in
Samarkand (external link; opens in a new tab)
Combinations with non-dark destinations: Tashkent has some architectural and artistic sights to offer, including many from the Soviet days (in particular the metro!). Visiting bazaars is also a popular activity. The Tashkent Tower affords good views of the city.
See also this
things to do list (external link; opens in a new window).
[all photos below courtesy and copyright of Ryan Ettenfield]
A small and in parts rather bizarre museum in Uzbekistan's capital city Tashkent, namely about the country’s late former ultra-authoritarian ruler Islam Karimov (who died in 2016). It doesn’t say anything about his iron-fisted, ruthless regime and rigged elections but rather comes with a high cult-of-personality factor.
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